Choosing a Piano

Figure (1) – A typical over damper piano made in the 20th Century. If the piano is to be an item of display in your lounge then it is more important to have an instrument which is aesthetically pleasing. However this aspect is one which all to often sways the decision of a purchaser to the detriment of the student who has to spend hours on the piano. Most of the pianos which were made in the early 1900’s were beautiful pieces of furniture with finishes of burr walnut rosewood etc.etc. They were also usually large instruments which were more easily accommodated in larger rooms. Many of these lovely old pianos have more often than not served their time and are not capable of producing the finer nuances in touch and tone which are sought after by a teacher or student. You should also be aware that in the 1960’s It became fashionable to refurbish the cabinets of the already old overdamper pianos so as to make them look modern. Usually the front of the piano where the candlesticks used to be, was replaced by a plain veneer and the legs were removed and replaced with a plain curved leg.

Figure (2) – A typical Modern Piano Modern technology has enabled a smaller instrument to provide all the necessary volume and tonal qualities

Obviously individuals need to make choices with regard to the pianos looks but never allow this aspect to overshadow the functional and tonal qualities unless you are absolutely certain that the piano can be brought into a satisfactory condition with the necessary repairs.

The strings frame and pin block are best viewed when the action has been removed, however it is possible to check for the following features without that procedure:

• The metal frame needs to have no signs of cracks.
• The Tuning pins should all be nicely horizontal to the pin block and there need to be no signs of sagging or cracks behind the pins in the pin block.
• The strings need to be uniformly coiled around each tuning pin and the coils should not be hard against the pin block.
• The strings need to be checked for any that are missing or broken and if there are several broken strings particularly in the bass region this is not a good sign.
• There should not be excessive rust on the tuning pins or strings and if rust is perceived to be localized in a particular area this could indicate that something has spilled on the top of the piano and dripped inside.
• If the piano is drastically out of tune then this could indicate a problem with the tightness of the tuning pins.

When you open the top lid of the piano and look down onto the mechanism (action) you should be able to see all the hammers quite clearly. If they are partially hidden by a piece of wood which runs 2/3rds the width of the piano then you are looking at and over-damper action. Although there are some over damper pianos which still have a bit of useful life left in them, I strongly recommend that these be avoided if at all possible.

A better illustration of an upright action can be found at here:

http://www.pianoshop.co.uk/info/figures/und_dg_f.htm

Assuming that you are now looking at a piano with an under damper mechanism, with top flap already opened you should now release the two catches at either end of the top door and remove it in order to view the mechanism. Looking at the illustration above you will see that the mechanism is quite a complicated piece of machinery . The average upright piano has in the region of 10,000 separate parts. It is not practical for me to dwell on each of these but I will mention a few pertinent items which can be of use in an appraisal.

Most problems listed could entail complete dismantling of the mechanism which can involve large expenditure. Check the free movement of the hammers by continually depressing the soft (left) pedal up and down. If any of the hammers seem to lag behind when you release the pedal then there are tight butt flange centres. There could also be tight wippen or jack flange centres. (See above illustration)

• If a note ceases to play with constant repetition it could mean tight jack flange centres
• If there is a clicking sound when a key is released this means that the butt cushion felts have been eaten.
• If the sound continues after the key has been released then:
  a) the damper felts have probably been eaten or
  b) a damper spring needs replacement.
• The hammers may have deep indentations from continually hitting the strings in which case they:
  a) Will need to be reshaped or
  b) Will need to be replaced if there is insufficient felt left on the hammers.
• There could be an instance where the hammers have popped. This occurs when the felt around the hammer has become unglued. This is not to much of a problem if it applies to only a few hammers in the treble regions. It is not easily seen at first glance but you can determine this by putting your hand around the hammers and feeling underneath.

Original ivories are only a plus factor if they are still perfect and without ugly discolouration caused by reglueing or replacements. Plastic keys generally remain white for ever and seldom discolour or become unglued over the years. If the piano has plastic keys these should be uniformly cut and not show excessive gaps in between the keys. The keys are held in place by a steel pins in the middle and in the front. Lateral movement is minimised by bushing cloth in the keys. Excessive noisy movement from side to side could mean that the key bushings need replacement. If keys stick down when depressed and do not return it could mean one of four things:

1) The lead weights at the back of the keys have oxidized and are chafing each other.
2) The key bushings have swollen and need compressing with special pliers.
3) There may have been rodent excretions which have caused the wooden keys to swell.
4) Dirt or droppings have wedged themselves between the keys and need removing.

If the keys are badly chipped this should have an influence on the price of the piano as replacement of keys can be fairly costly.

There is also the question of the condition of the keybed felts. These are the felts under the keys which have a profound influence on the function of the entire mechanism. They are very often eaten by moth larvae and their replacement involves a revised regulation of the entire mechanism. If moth activity is fairly advanced it will manifest itself in the undulating height of the keys. So check that the keys are level.

The sound board is situated at the back of the piano and is difficult to see unless the piano is pulled away from the wall. Even then in some instances it is hidden behind a protective cloth. Most of the sound board can also be viewed from the front by removing the bottom door of the piano. The door is secured by wooden catches underneath the keyboard or by a spring which needs to be pushed upwards at the same time as pulling the door towards you. Having removed the bottom door look towards the soundboard at the back (partially obscured by the frame and strings). This should be devoid of cracks. Examine the bass bridge close to where the bass strings are anchored to see if there are any cracks where the bridge pins enter the bridge. Problems in this area can be the cause of major defects in the sound of the piano.